1. Introduction
1. The Daboya Weaving Industry
The development of the Daboya weaving industry is very essential since it is part of the broader textile industry and contributes to the socio - economic development of Ghana. It creates job opportunities for both the young and the old in the community. Dietz (2013)
[10] | Dietz, T. (2013). Daboya Workshop Report. Ghana Statistical Service. |
[10]
mentioned that in scientific circles, the Daboya area received some attention during the late 1970s and 1980s, when a team of archaeologists from the University of Calgary, in Canada, did fieldwork and published some work about the iron-age history of the area. mentioned that in scientific circles, the Daboya area received some attention during the late 1970s and 1980s, when a team of archaeologists from the University of Calgary, in Canada, did fieldwork and published some work about the iron-age history of the area. Akrofi (2004)
[8] | Akrofi, M. (2004). The Role of the Textiles Artist in the AGOA Initiative. KNUST, Art Education, Unpublished M. A. Thesis. Pp. 7, 9-11, 21. |
[8]
argued that people are recognized by their costumes in order to understand the cultural importance of their clothes which differs from culture to culture. Danso et al. (2019)
[1] | Danso, D. K., Adom, D., Eshun, F. S., & Adamtey, S. K. (2019). Ghanaian Cultural Values and their Foreign Influence: A Spotlight on Clothing. J Fashion Technol Textile Eng 7: 1. of, 8, 2. |
[1]
adduced that hand-woven fabrics from the indigenous Ghanaian textile industry and smocks remain the most essential material culture that represent the nonverbal culture of the people in the Northern region. Hand-woven fabrics and smocks from Daboya are held in high esteem in the northern region of Ghana and in Ghana at large. Hartley (2005)
[9] | Hartley, J. (2005). Creative industries. Blackwell. |
[9]
noted that the National Cultural Policy captures the cultural industry with the intention of protecting cultural activities like those of the creative industry from undue foreign influence. Frimpong et al. (2013))
[7] | Frimpong, C., & Asinyo, B. K. (2013). A Comparative Study of History, Equipment, Materials, Techniques and Marketing Approach of Traditional Weaving in Ghana. |
[7]
elaborated that in the Daboya weaving industry, women process cotton into threads, which are stretched, dyed in deep pits with local indigo dyes or in different colours, dried on a line for a period of time and hand-woven into strips of fabric.
2. Skill development
Thomas (2004)
[2] | Thomas, A. (2004). The Study of Development. Paper prepared for DSA Annual Conference, 6 November, Church House, London. |
[2]
argued that, one of the key aspects of sustaining and growing enterprises and reducing poverty is private sector development which entails improving the economic outlook and upgrading fundamental service delivery. The development of devices and techniques that will enhance and facilitate the pre - weaving processes at the indigenous Daboya very important since it will help increase production and improve the quality of produce from the Daboya weaving industry. Sow et al (2014)
[3] | Sow, P., Adaawen, S. A., & Scheffran, J. (2014). Migration, social demands and environmental change amongst the Frafra of Northern Ghana and the Biali in Northern Benin. Sustainability, 6(1), 375 -398. |
[3]
noted that the expansion of localized industry and their development in rural areas has been acknowledged as one of the most effective strategies for reducing the migration of youth to urban capitals in search of employment opportunities. Quality is a major concern in entering the international market and this cannot be achieved if the systems that facilitate production are not developed. Abas (2015) opines that the Daboya local dyeing industry has contributed significantly to the support of the indigenes and has likewise been an important source of revenue both to the people of Daboya and the North Gonja District, but is now in a dwindling state because of the fading and the bad odour in the woven fabric. The Elys Development model therefore brings into bear structure that will ensure the development and sustainance of the indigenous Daboya weaving industry.
3. Cottage industry
Kundu (2017)
[11] | Kundu D. K. (2017). Origin and development of cottage industries in india: a study in preindependence era, International Journal of Research in Social Sciences. |
[11]
cited that the manufacturing of things is created by the traditional artists and craftsmen who have received their work as art from their ancestors. Tasneem & Biswas (2014)
[12] | Tasneem S. Md. Biswas R. (2017). Role of Industryin the Economic Development of Bangladesh: An Empirical Study, European Journal of Business and Management. |
[12]
also adduced that the industry involves the traditional artisanship of the rural people who produce various household items with lo2ally available raw materials and artistic skills inherited from past generations for their own use and for their livelihood. Arithar (2018)
[13] | Amirtha Varshini, A. S., Bhavani, G., Vithya, & Thilagavathy, R. (2021, February). Real-time hand gesture recognition for robotic arm and home automation. In 2021 International Symposium on Electrical, Electronics and Information Engineering (pp. 218-223). |
[13]
also mentioned that the term “cottage industry‟ is used for businesses that produce items on a small - scale. India is well known for its numerous ancient cottage industries; nevertheless with the onset of industrialization cottage industries experienced a significant drop. Also, the Indian government has taken initiatives to reinvigorate the cottage industries, and they currently play an important role in the country's economy. Hira (2019)
[14] | Hira F. (2019). Essence of Pakistan Cottage Industry, A comprehensive report. |
[14]
added that a small-scale industry is a decentralized manufacturing business often operated out of a home rather than a purpose-built facility. Bulick (2003)
[15] | Bulick, B. (2003). Cultural Development in Creative Communities. Americans for the Arts Monograph. November. |
[15]
concluded that in developing and creating chances for partnerships between artistic groups and business firms, creative cities aim to foster the economic potential of the arts.
The objective of the study is to criticcally examine the Daboya weaving industry and develop a model for its development and sustainability.
4. Discussions
4.1. Interpretation of the Developed Model
The model is made up of four main components which are:
1) Situational analysis
2) Theory of change
3) Theory of action
4) Measurement framework
4.1.1. Situational Analysis (Lack of Development at the Daboya Weaving Industry)
Situational analysis assists with discovering issues related to a product or service as well as determining the extent of a problem. Guthrie (2022)
[4] | Guthrie Georgina (2022). What is Situation Analysis, and why is it so important? Nulab. |
[4]
defines situational analysis as a process that helps you identify opportunities and challenges both internal and external to your organization, service or product. The researcher analysis the Daboya weaving industry and observed that there is a need for development at the Daboya weaving industry. The stages that the production of the hand-woven fabric goes through before it get to the consumer were categorized into three sections. The solution to the problem was therefore addressed to three sections thus the dyeing section, the weaving section and the sewing / sales section.
4.1.2. Theory of Change
A theory of change defines the components that ensure that change occurs. Guthrie (2022)
[4] | Guthrie Georgina (2022). What is Situation Analysis, and why is it so important? Nulab. |
[4]
stated that the theory of change is an activity that assists in the identification of opportunities and challenges both internal and external to your organization, service or product and it is also a tool that is engaged to define the scope of a problem. Van der Laan (2019)
[5] | Van der Laan A. (2019), “How to design a Theory of Change”, Twitter Story - 1. |
[5]
also noted that, a theory of change, as the name implies is a hypothesis of how we think change occurs and it is sometimes referred to as interventional logics or results chains. Guthrie (2022
[4] | Guthrie Georgina (2022). What is Situation Analysis, and why is it so important? Nulab. |
[4]
noted that, a theory of change is designed with an understanding of different factors (2022) and perspectives of stakeholders and details a perception of reality that is shaped by the standard, belief, happenings and opinions of the people who created it.
4.1.3. Theory of Action
A theory of action gives details on activities that need to be done to accomplish the theory of change that is needed. George, R. (2019)
[6] | George, R. (2019). What is a theory of action? TetraTech International Development. |
[6]
noted that, the theory of action is achieved by implementing the theory of change in a specific program or intervention. Again, George, R. (2019)
[6] | George, R. (2019). What is a theory of action? TetraTech International Development. |
[6]
opine that the theory of action describes how a project or a program is configured as well as articulates the executions through which the activities are being delivered. It is important to view the theory of action for an intervention from an evaluation perspective because if the theory of action is properly executed, the evaluator can more easily access what went wrong in the program theory, which combines the theory of change and the action theory.
4.1.4. Measurement Framework
A measuring framework integrates theory and data to explain the circumstances required to accomplish an objective. It comprises a data-populated indicator or combination of indicators. The theory clarifies why the condition is important for the purpose and why the measurements are accurate substitutes for the condition and any changes in it. George, R. (2019)
[6] | George, R. (2019). What is a theory of action? TetraTech International Development. |
[6]
enlightened that there is an urgent need to dedicate more attention, money and time to the development of the theories of action from both the implementation and assessment perspectives.
4.2. Application of the Theory of Changes in the Daboya Weaving Industry
4.2.1. Theory of Change for All Sections: Erect a Shed and a Building for All the Sections
A shed and a building should be provided for the dyeing, weaving and sewing/sales sectionwhich will provide shelter and protection for workers at the Daboya weaving industry. It will also prevent intruders from easily entering the dyeing, weaving or sewing/sales sections of the weaving industry. For the dyeing section, a transparent roofing sheet should be used for the roofing of the shed because sunlight is needed for the oxidation process that occurs during dyeing. In order to store raw materials and deter thieves and other intruders from taking them, each section of the building should have a storage room. There should also be offices in the building where receptionists will receive visitors from all sections. The environment of the dyeing, weaving and sewing/sales section should also be well constructed and ventilated to suit a conclusive studio. It should be possible for all workers to easily relieve themselves and maintain a clean environment by providing basic amenities like a washroom. Additionally, all woven fabrics and products should be showcased in the sewing/sales area so that clients can simply browse and buy what they require.
4.2.2. Machines and Devices
The dyeing section should have equipment and machinery like the winch dyeing machine, which can dye yarns in rope form. The The research revealed that, during the dyeing of yarns at the Daboya weaving industry, coluur fastness can be achieved when the fabrics are steamed or baked properly. This was demonstrated during the experiment that was done during the research. The yarns were steamed for thirty (30) minutes in a steam of 150 degrees Celsius to ensure colour fastness. Fabric baking machines should therefore be acquired for dyers in the Daboya weaving industry so they can effectively dry and steam their indigo dyed yarns and ensure a good colour fastness of the hand-woven fabrics. The weaving section should acquire machines and devices that will facilitate the pre -weaving process such as the warping mill, broadloom and jacquard loom. Computers for designing as well as software for designing such as Adobe Photoshop and Adobe weave Point should be acquired for the weaving section. This will enable them to create new and innovative designs and have a pre-view of the design before the actual designing and weaving are done. In the sewing section, sewing machines and embroidery machines should be acquired for tailors in the Daboya weaving industry. These sewing machines can sew accurately, faster and create more designs than using the hand and needle. These sewing machines can sew through both light and thicker fabric and still maintain its structure. Embroidery machines that create different designs must also be acquired for the tailors in the Daboya weaving industry so that they can create more designs and crease sales.
4.2.3. New Dyeing Techniques / Approaches
The study revealed that the dyeing approach used in the Daboya weaving industr is one of the factors that accounts for the fading of the fabrics. During the dyeing of yarns with natural indigo leaves dyebath, reduction and oxidation are employed to ensure the effective absorption of dye molecules into the interstices of the fibres that form the yarns. The experiment that was demonstrated during the research reveals that the reduction and oxidation periods required when using indigo dyebath at the Daboya weaving industry should take a minimum of ten (10) minutes and a maximum of fifteen (15) minutes. Ten (10) minutes for the first colour dyeing and fifteen (15) minutes for second colour dyeing. This was demonstrated during the experiment that was performed to ensure that Daboya dyed yarns would remain fast. However, the study discovered that dyers in the Daboya weaving industry use only two (2) minutes during the reduction and oxidation periods of the dyeing process.
4.2.4. Eliminate the Smell in the Dyed Cotton Yarn
The unpleasant smell in Daboya hand - woven fabrics is one of the major reasons for the decline of the Daboya weaving industry. The researcher succeeded in producing a fabric finish that helps to get rid of the unpleasant smell in Daboya hand-woven fabrics. The study revealed that an unpleasant smell in a one (1) yard Daboya dyed fabric can be effectively eliminated using 20 milligrams of the fabric finish produced in a thousand or one (1) litre bottle of water.
4.2.5. Get Rid of the Fading of the Dyed Cotton Yarns
Another major reason for the decline and low patronage of Daboya hand - woven fabrics is the fading of the fabric. Again, a fabric finish was applied to the woven fabric to prevent it from fading. The study revealed that the dye absorption period as well as the after dyeing treatment given to the Daboya dyed yarns contribute to the low water and light fastness of the yarn. Two fabric samples were used, thus an already dyed cotton strip from the Daboya weaving industry was treated to prevent it from fading and an undyed cotton yarn from the Dagoya weaving industry was also dyed in such a way that it does not fade after the dyeing process. The fabric finish produced during the research was used to prevent the fading of the Daboya dyed and undyed woven fabric. The water fastness and light fastness of the already dyed cotton yarn were tested before the experiment begun. The light fasted recorded 1.0 and the water faster was also 1.0 which is an indication of very excessive water and light fastness rate. However, after the treatment, the water fastness and light fastness of the Daboya dyed yarns was tested again. The water fastness was 3. 0 and the light fastness was 4.0. It was therefore a proof that increasing the reduction and oxidation period and treating the dyed fabric with the fabric finish that was produced can effectively improve the colour fastness and water fastness of Daboya woven fabrics.
4.2.6. Soft Skill
Soft skills are essential for workers in the Daboya weaving industry as they enhance interpersonal relationships, job performance, and career prospects. Employees in the weaving, dyeing, and sewing/sales departments need to possess these soft skills. Soft skills like effective communication, conflict resolution, confidence, cooperation, relationship management, respect, emotional intelligence, and empathy should be taught to workers in the Daboya weaving industry. Again, leaders in the Daboya weaving industry need career attributes such as honesty, leadership, and flexibility.
4.2.7. Tax Exemption
The 'Baaba' used in the Daboya weaving industry and the import duties levied on cotton yarns are the main causes of their exorbitant cost. Therefore, in order for small-scale textile industries like the Daboya weaving industry to import more materials and create hand-woven fabrics at a lower labour cost, the government should eliminate or lower import duties on those materials. This will enable them to also sell their produce at a lower price to consumers.
4.2.8. Soft Loan
Soft loans are loans with flexible terms of payment that are normally given to individuals. One of the things keeping workers in the Daboya weaving industry from producing more hand-woven fabric is financial constraints. Governmental and non-governmental organizations ought to provide Daboya weavers with flexible repayment plans and soft loans so they can purchase more raw materials and increase their output.
4.2.9. Mechanization of Some Tools and Equipment
Most of the tools as well as equipment used at all sections of the Daboya weaving industry are outdated. When these tools and equipment are automated, productivity will rise in the Daboya weaving industry and work will be easier.
4.2.10. Irrigation Farming
Acquisition of cotton yarns are normally very difficult and expensive to come by in the Daboya weaving industry. However, the study shows that when cotton was grown and spun in Ghana, it used to be more affordable and widely available. The government should therefore assist. Daboya natives in cultivating cotton fibres since the White Volta flows along. the township's border and can provide water for irrigation farming.
4.3. Exportation
Products from the Daboya weaving industry can be exported to other niche markets in Africa as well as to European countries that will need them if they do not fade or carry the usual unpleasant smell. Agains, the study revealed that none of the workers in the Daboya weaving industry have knowledge of what it takes to be export ready. Therefore, in order to help them meet international standards and become export-ready, the Ghana Export Promotion Authority should provide education and support for Daboya workers so that their product can be exported to other outside countries.
4.4. Advertisement
Advertisement of Daboya hand-woven fabric is very important to ensure that customers get to know about woven fabrics from Daboya so that they can purchase them. Daboya hand-woven fabrics and products should be advertised on radio and television stations. Additionally, items from the Daboya weaving sector ought to be on exhibit at both national trade shows and local fairs, or durbars. To draw in more customers, hand-woven fabrics ought to be created for personalities and particular events.
4.5. Application of Theory of Action for All Sectiond
The Theory of Action outlines the resource and activities needed to accomplish the theory of change.
4.5.1. Financial Support
Financial support is a major resource that will help facilitate all the changes aimed at developing the Daboya weaving industry. The researcher financed the production of the fabric finish that was produced during the study to help eliminate the unusual smell in the Daboya hand-woven fabric and prevent the fading of Daboya hand-woven fabrics. Workers in the Daboya weaving industry should receive financial support from both governmental and non-governmental organizations. These can come directly or in the form of soft loans and tax exemptions on product means for the production of hand woven fabric at Daboya.
4.5.2. Experts From Institutions
Experts from textile industries that engage in dyeing, weaving, sewing, orsalesof hand-woven fabric weaving will be essential in putting into practice the changes that will foster the growth of the Daboya weaving industry. This can come in the form of advice or hands on training. To ensure that the aforementioned changes are put into practice and further the development of the Daboya weaving industry, experts from textile-focused universities such as the Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology, the University of Education, winneba, Tamale Technical University, Takoradi Technical University, and Accra Technical University should help organize workshops and training sessions. Experts from large textile industries such as Tex Style Ghana Limited, formally known as Ghana Textile Print (G. T. P) and Akosombo Textile should also act as facilitators during the workshop training at the Daboya weaving industry.
4.6. Activities
The activities that should aid the change that is needed as well as the resources provided are operationals includes:
4.6.1. Organize Workshops / Training Sections
Organizing workshops and training sections will create a platform to teach the workers of the Daboya weaving industry how to apply the fabric finish produced to their products in order to eliminate the unpleasant smell as well as prevent the fading of their hand-woven fabrics. Again, most workers in the Daboya weaving industry are not aware of any soft skills that will enhance their personal communication or character traits. Workshop/training section will also serve as a platform for them to learn soft skills that will improve upon their personal traits.
4.6.2. Attachment
Setting up an attachment is another task that will assist employees in the Daboya weaving industry in learning more and developing themselves personally. Employees ought to be provided with the chance to go on attachment at textile industries and establishments that deal with the weaving, dyeing and sewing of woven fabric. Their exposure to other native textile industries will also provide them with fresh perspectives and knowledge that will guarantee the growth of the Daboya weaving industry.
4.6.3. Exchange Programs
A program of exchanges should be set up between the universities and the dyers, weavers, and tailors in the Daboya weaving industry as well as those from larger textile industries. This will introduce the dyers to different dyeing techniques and procedures. Additionally, exchange programs involving Daboya dyers and other indigenous weaving industries engaged in indigenous pit dyeing in related regions ought to be established.
4.7. Measurement Framework for All Sections
The goals or modifications that were suggested by the theory of change in each of the measurement framework's sections are compared to the results and examined. Assessors and facilitators should be assigned in order to receive feedback from the workers. In order to make sure that the changes and activities are implemented successfully and that feedback is obtained, representatives from the larger textile industry as well as organizations like universities should serve as external monitors and evaluators. Three executives from the Daboya weavers association as well as experts from institutions such as Tex - Style Ghana Limited and Akosombo textile industry should act as external supervisors.